HOODIE FABRIC GUIDE

French Terry vs Fleece for Custom Hoodies

French terry uses a loopback interior; brushed fleece uses a raised, softer interior. They can share the same GSM yet deliver different warmth, drape and production risks.

French terry vs fleece: the quick answer

Choose French terry when the brief calls for a cleaner loopback interior and a less fluffy hand. Choose brushed fleece when the brief calls for a softer, lofted interior and a warmer direction. Neither name defines fibre content, exact weight or quality, so buyers should approve the physical fabric and finished garment.

Do not specify by fabric name alone. Request GSM, fibre composition, knit structure, brushing direction, shrinkage requirements and a physical swatch.

Buyer comparison: French terry and brushed fleece

DecisionFrench terryBrushed fleece
InteriorVisible loops, less fluffyRaised, soft pile
Seasonal directionOften used for transitional or year-round layersOften selected for colder-season warmth
StructureCan feel clean and substantial without a fuzzy interiorBrushing adds loft; drape still depends on knit and composition
Key riskLoop snagging or shrinkageShedding, pilling or uneven brushing
DecorationSmooth face can support print and embroideryFace can also support decoration; test stability and heat response

What to put in the hoodie fabric specification

  • Target GSM and tolerance
  • Full fibre composition
  • Usable width and knit structure
  • Brushed or unbrushed reverse
  • Shrinkage test method
  • Colorfastness requirement
  • Pilling or shedding requirement
  • Approved hand-feel swatch

How to compare hoodie samples

Compare fabrics in the intended garment, not only as loose swatches. Record garment weight, drape, opacity, warmth, stretch recovery and dimensional change after laundering. Check the hood, pocket and rib because multiple fabric layers can feel much bulkier than the body panel.

Use the clothing GSM guide to define weight, then review custom hoodie manufacturing options before sending a sourcing brief.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between French terry and fleece?

French terry normally has visible loops on the reverse, while brushed fleece has a raised, soft inner surface. Composition, GSM and finishing must still be specified separately.

Is French terry always cotton?

No. French terry describes a knit structure, not a fibre. It may be cotton, polyester or a blend.

Is brushed fleece always heavier?

No. Brushing changes the surface and loft; the actual GSM must be measured.

Which fabric is better for screen printing?

Both may work when the face is stable and smooth enough. Test the chosen ink system on the actual fabric.

What should buyers approve before bulk production?

Approve composition, GSM, color, hand feel, shrinkage, pilling or shedding, measurements and decoration.

Source the right fabric for your hoodie program.

Send your target GSM, composition, quantity, market and design brief. We will review the fabric direction and sampling requirements before quoting.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Lei (Gerry) WangApparel Sourcing & Production Manager · Wincome Apparel

Gerry has seven years of apparel industry experience across product selection, sampling, fabric development, production coordination, quality control and communication with international buyers.