What clothing GSM tells you - and what it does not
GSM stands for grams per square metre. A properly cut and conditioned fabric sample can be weighed to estimate fabric mass. Higher GSM usually means more material per area, but two fabrics at the same GSM can have different thickness, stretch, opacity, softness and drape.
GSM planning ranges for T-shirts and hoodies
The ranges below are starting points, not universal industry grades. Confirm the actual fabric and finished garment for every program.
| Product | Planning range | Typical direction |
|---|---|---|
| T-shirt jersey | About 160-220 GSM | Light to midweight |
| T-shirt jersey | About 220-280 GSM | Heavyweight |
| T-shirt jersey | About 280 GSM and above | Extra-heavy, structure-focused |
| Hoodie fabric | About 280-340 GSM | Midweight layering |
| Hoodie fabric | About 340-420 GSM | Heavyweight |
| Hoodie fabric | About 420 GSM and above | Extra-heavy programs |
What does 350 GSM fleece mean?
A 350 GSM fleece has a measured fabric mass of about 350 grams per square metre. It is commonly considered a heavyweight hoodie direction, but the number alone does not define thickness or warmth. A dense 350 GSM loopback terry and a lofted 350 GSM brushed fleece can feel very different.
Before bulk production, approve composition, brushing, shrinkage, pilling or shedding, finished garment weight and the actual hand-feel sample. Compare the structures in the French terry vs fleece guide.
Why the same GSM can feel different
- Composition: cotton, polyester and blends have different density and moisture behavior.
- Knit: jersey, terry and fleece distribute mass differently.
- Brushing: a raised interior adds loft and warmth without changing the fibre label.
- Garment washing: shrinkage can increase measured mass per area and change hand feel.
- Pattern: a wide fit or double-layer hood changes total garment weight even at the same GSM.
What buyers should request with a GSM value
- Full composition
- Target GSM and tolerance
- Knit structure
- Brushed or unbrushed surface
- Shrinkage result
- Colorfastness result
- Finished garment weight
- Approved hand-feel sample
Review custom T-shirt manufacturing or custom hoodie manufacturing before submitting a project brief.